After searching for a few hours and coming up with all the wrong information, I am posting this wiring diagram of a Lance Cali Classic CDI ignition circuit. Unlike most scooter CDI ignitions, the Lance is a DC (direct current) capacitive discharge ignition system. This means the scooter will not run without a battery in it.
This exact scooter was a 2016 Lance Cali Classic 125. The original problem was intermittent starting, the customer said he would flip the switch once of twice and then it would start. The scooter was in good shape and the switch wasn’t broken or damaged in any way. It appears that the company used dielectric or silicone grease on the switches and over the course of years it became sticky and actually ended up coating the contact in the switch causing the condition.
Fortunately while I was working on it, the switch quit working altogether. I was using an oscilloscope at the time, as I tested the pick up sensor and was looking at other things, trying to figure out what was what, and come up with my own wiring diagram, as there is no service manual or accurate wiring diagram that I could find. All the replacement CDI units I saw were also AC CDI units, which is incorrect.
What clued me into this being a DC CDI system was that there was no black/red wire coming out of the stator, just 2 Yellow wires. The wiring at the CDI Unit also didn’t quit match the AC unit diagrams, even though the wire colors were the same. Up at the kill switch the 2 wire colors are black, which is the 12 volts battery power and the CDI power wire is Brown up at the switch, and then obviously changes into Black/Red some where in the harness. I didn’t go digging that far to see where that happens, probably at a plug connection.
Anyway here is a correct diagram. Hope it saves someone the headache I had to go through.
Top Tier gas stations are gas stations which sell gas with the fuel detergent additive polyetheramine (PEA). I discuss what the fuel detergent additive polyetheramine (PEA) is in the article, and why it is good for keeping your motorcycle engine clean. (or any other engine for that matter…) Licensed TOP TIER™ Gasoline Retailers must adhere to the rigorous fuel detergency performance requirements. Be assured, the performance standard applies to all octane grades sold in each of the retail outlets, even if a TOP TIER™ Approved Gasoline sticker is not found on the pump.
Fuel additives and fuel system cleaners are as hot of a topic as motor oils.
There are all kinds of fuel system additives claiming all kinds of benefits from cleaner engine, to more performance, to better gas mileage. But are these statements true? Some are, but most aren’t. It’s a tricky subject to navigate because much of what you hear is from what people THINK, not what can be proven in a scientific test. What you should realize is that in most cases, like 98% of the time, if a product does work, and works well, your engine will not be making more power or get better gas mileage than when it was new. That is to say there is no product that really makes your engine better than it was, but there are some products that can restore the performance of your engine by cleaning and lubricating the fuel system components.
Problem #1 : Carbon build up on injectors, valves and combustion chambers.
Carbon build up aka… carbon deposits, happen when fuel is burnt in your engine, or in the case of intake valves, the fuel hits the hot valve and slowly builds up on the back of it. This happens in both diesel and gasoline engines. As mentioned carbon build deposits on the tops of pistons and inside the combustion chamber simply happen because the fuel in being burnt and used for power. There is really nothing you can do to prevent this. Normal depositing doesn’t harm anything, in fact a very light coating helps keep heat in the combustion chamber and actually protects the top of the pistons. However after many miles this build up can get out of hand and begins to cause problems. In the combustion chamber it can cause glowing hot spots that ignite fuel before the spark plug and can cause the engine to knock.
Excessive carbon build up can also foul fuel injector spray patterns which also cause engine performance problems. Carbon build up on the back of intake valves restricts air flow into the cylinder creating performance problems, like a general lack of power. Carbon deposits can also build up in between the valves and valve seats causing the valves to not seal properly and resulting in a lack of power.
Problem #2: Getting rid of carbon build up / or deposits safely.
In modern engines there is a right and wrong way to clean carbon deposits. In modern engines the proper way is to dissolve the carbon deposits so they can burn and safely go through the engine and exhaust system. This is a very important point because in older cars where you did not have catalytic converters and oxygen sensors and all the other modern components, you could have a product break up the carbon and it could exit the engine in small chunks or pieces safely. There are some very well known products that work good and are perfectly fine to use on older vehicles, however, these very same products used on modern engines will do very little or perhaps nothing, or they can cause significant damage when chunks of carbon get caught in things like catalytic converters and clog them. That is why I have pointed out the importance of dissolving the deposits.
Problem #3 Water in fuel from alcohol causing damage and corrosion to fuel system parts.
Straight from the government: “More than 98% of U.S. gasoline contains ethanol to oxygenate the fuel.” Ethanol is alcohol, and alcohol adsorbs water, and water in your fuel damages parts and as an added bonus ethanol also results in slightly less gas mileage, because it doesn’t have the same amount of energy that gasoline has.
FUN FACT TIME…..
Your tax dollars go to subsidize farmers to grow corn to produce ethanol, which then gets you less gas mileage and costs you more money when you have to make repairs because of the damage water does to your fuel system. I will also add that I believe that the refineries that take the corn and make it into ethanol are also a losing proposition and are also subsidized by your tax dollars. If that isn’t bad enough, corn is not the most efficient way to make ethanol, sugar cane is. That is why you hear about Brazil using ethanol. Brazil is the 2nd largest producer of ethanol and the United States is #1. So it is safe to say that it’s quite a bit of your tax dollars being wasted. I learned about this in the 1980’s and it still holds true today. I had no idea of the secrets I was keeping! :0
Ethanol alcohol is a great racing fuel. It has a very high resistance to exploding (that’s what octane rating is all about..) and it burns cooler, so you can run very high compression. However.. because it does not have the stored energy of gasoline, as a general rule you must adjust your carburetor to flow 3 times the amount of fuel that it would normally need running on gasoline. Also, alcohol race cars are very high maintenance because of alcohol’s corrosive nature. Much attention has to be paid to the fuel system and the motor oil. Alcohol will get in the engine oil attracting both water and diluting the oil. Alcohol race cars are also stored with an empty fuel tank because you don’t want that stuff just sitting in there.
What makes a fuel system cleaner good?
A good fuel system cleaner will have Polyetheramine in it. Polyetheramine or P.E.A. as it is known, is what dissolves the carbon build ups. If the fuel system cleaner you are using doesn’t have P.E.A. in it, you are wasting your money and possibly even damaging your car. Many fuel system, fuel injector cleaners DO NOT have P.E.A. in them.
In addition to P.E.A. the good fuel system cleaners also have lubricants in them to protect parts from the caustic effects of the ethanol in fuel. Some additives also stabilize the fuel so it will last longer and not pick up water. It is always best to read up a bit on what you are going to purchase, and use it as directed. While much of the advertisement you will see can make it sound like miracles will happen, truth is you will probably just notice that your car runs smoother / better. It’s well worth using a good fuel injector cleaner regularly to keep your engine clean.
This is a list of fuel injector / fuel system cleaners with P.E.A.
This list isn’t a complete list of fuel additives with P.E.A. , but it’s a good list. Not all injector cleaners have the same amount of P.E.A. in it. The ones with lesser amount of P.E.A. seem to have about 5%, while the stronger ones have up to 35%. The stronger ones are usually high mileage formulas. All of these fuel system cleaners work with both gasoline and diesel engines, and both fuel injected and carburetted engines. Fuel injection cleaner will not harm a carburetor, but it is not recommended to use fuel additive designed for carburetors, in fuel injected vehicles.
Many, if not almost all Gumout Products have P.E.A. in them. Tune-Up is the weakest at 5%. Gumout All In One is a stronger additive.
Lucas Deep Clean Fuel injector Cleaner is another good choice along with Lucas Emissions Clear. I would say both of these products are greater than 5%
Royal Purple Max Clean is another good product with a strong percentage of P.E.A.
Red Line SI-1 is a strong cleaner also with about 20% P.E.A.
Red Line SI-1 is a strong cleaner also with about 20% P.E.A.
Techron by Chevron is basically the industry standard, considering Chevron invented Polyetheramine. I think this stuff is like 30%. It says one bottle cleans all the deposits, but that is debatable. Honestly there are many factors that come into play with that statement. Things like how dirty is the engine, and how well the engine has been taken care of, how many miles are on the engine and so on. Most of these products recommend using them every 3000 miles.
Did You Know That Some Gasoline Already Contains P.E.A.?
There is gasoline marked as Top Tier. This gasoline is only available at some gas stations. There are plenty of gas stations that have this gas. Sometimes the gas stations call it “Guaranteed Gas.” You can see a list Top Tier Gas Stations Here.
What is the best case sealer to use on your 2 stroke engine?
I have typed this question into search engines and wasted plenty of hours looking for a definitive answer, but haven’t really found one until… I found this:
“News flash guys: Yamabond (and Hondabond and a few others) are all the same thing! It’s actually Threebond 1127, made by the 3M Corporation. Also happens to be the recommended case sealant for most 2-strokes that don’t use a center case gasket. Like Hylomar, it never really sets up hard, and you’ll only need a light film on both halves, so it doesn’t really squeeze out into the cases. “
So to start with ThreeBond 1127 seems to no longer be available and upon emailing and asking ThreeBond about this not being available and what would be good to use, they gave no answer telling me to go to the dealer or some such thing. Pretty sad when a company can’t even recommend their own product.
2 stroke engine cases are kinda special because if you use the wrong sealant the gasoline will eat it and you will have an air leak and bad things will happen. I don’t like dealers, so I wanted a case sealer that was readily available in an auto parts store or something. So here is a list of more than acceptable sealers to use. I put them in the order of my choice.
I don’t know how long it’s been around, I haven’t really seen it before, so maybe it’s somewhat new? Motoseal by Permatex is my first choice. It says right on the package for “Ideal for case halves” and that it is “Resistant to all automotive fuels”, and there are pictures of snowmobile and dirt bike, which are known for being 2 stroke engines. That makes MotoSeal my first choice.
Next up for me is Hylomar. When I was first introduced to Hylomar I liked it’s blue color, it’s easy to use, it works well with fuel, it cleans off easy and the thing that sold me at the time was that Rolls Royce used it on their jet engines, and if it was good enough for a jet engine and Rolls Royce, it was good enough for me too.
Unlike most sealers, Halomar doesn’t dry or set up. It does have some kind of solvent that evaporates, but the sealer it’s self doesn’t set up like silicone, which dries, but doesn’t harden. If you have two pieces that have been coated with Hylomar and you take them apart, you can put them back together and the Hylomar will still do it’s job. This isn’t a good shop practice, but works well out in the field. Hylomar is also great for coating o rings to make sure they seal. It is harder to find than MotoSeal and more expensive, but is kind of in a class of it’s own due to it’s properties.
Only because I don’t have to go to the dealer the next in line would be ThreeBond 1184. It says it is high performance, OEM specified, resistant to oil, water, high temps, and gasoline. I’m sure it’s a good choice, I just don’t like the company’s attitude when it comes to answering a legit question from a potential customer. I’m insulted. (again…..)
The last two rank the same. They are both good products. They are somewhat available at other places than the dealer these days. I believe too that they have changed the formula to non-hardening, at least in the case of Yamabond. I clearly remember having to scrape off hard dried gray colored Yamabond and what a pain in the ass that was. Other mechanics had complained about the same thing., so it’s not just me. That was years ago though. The whole thing with case sealer is that you don’t want it to harden. maybe that’s why the mysterious 1127 by ThreeBond isn’t around anymore, since it was rumored to be Yamabond and Hondabond. The world may never know because I don’t think ThreeBond would give you an answer.
That sums it up for 2 stroke engine case sealers. These would also be good sealers for 4 stroke engines as they all handle oil. Building Harley engines all the time I normally used a silicone sealer because 4 stroke engines don’t deal with the gasoline, just oil.
DO NOT USE THE FOLLOWING SEALERS ON 2 STROKE ENGINES Only 4 stroke engines.
As a bonus I will put my two favorite 4 stroke silicone sealers here. The first has been my go to for well over 30 years. Works like a charm when used properly, and your not constantly buying tubes of the stuff every other day. ( I used to build that many engines). You buy a caulking gun and a tube of GE Advanced Silicone. You need to know how to properly use it, you don’t want to just squirt it all over, you don’t want silicone plugging an oil passage. It has great bonding on clean surfaces. It is also very economical as compared to buying small tubes and the caulk gun made it easy to use. It’s silicone, so it handles the oil and heat and water just fine.
Another very good silicone sealant I use is the Permatex Ultra Gray or Ultra Black. These are a heavy duty thick, slow drying silicone gasket makers. The gray and black colors match engine cases too so your job can look a little neater. Slow drying time makes it easier to work with stuff at times too.
Version 1.0.0
These last two I would NEVER use in a million years. Every single job I have seen with either orange or blue silicone is some butchered up piece of shit. As such I have named them “The Orange Silicone of Death” and “The Blue Silicone of Doom.” I would see this stuff just oozing out of gasket surfaces and could only think What the Fuck………..not only that, there would still be oil leaking out of whatever it was smeared all over. Maybe someone, somewhere, has used this stuff properly, but I have yet to meet them.
This is a diagram of the main fuel injection components for most Harley’s 2003 and later. It is very useful when you have no-start or intermittent fuel problems. It shows all the main output components.
Wiring diagram of basic scooter ignition system wiring.
Below is a basic, but accurate wiring diagram showing the connections of the stator, CDI box, coil and ignition timing pick-up. This will cover most modern chinese scooters, plus others. The CDI box (CAPACITIVE DISCHARGE IGNITION ), in the diagram, is an AC (alternating current) type, which is identified by the fact that it is powered directly by the stator. DC (direct current) CDI boxes will be powered by the battery.
When rebuilding a 1975 Harley-Davidson SX250 that had been sitting for well over 20 years, I obviously found the old clutch fiber plates to be bad. The clutch was rusted together from normal condensation from temperature changes and the fiber plates were falling apart. The steels were fine, just needed cleaning up. I figured I’d get on the internet and find a new set of drive plates pretty fast, but the only thing I found out fast was that there seems to be very little available, and anything new is going to be 40 to 50 years old. I did find NOS plates on ebay, but they were selling them one at a time and wanted stupid money for those old plates.
As usual the wheels started turning and I was thinking that surely there were other clutch plates out there that would fit, but I found nothing on the internet again, so I started looking at random clutches and trying to see if there was any measurements out there. No luck. After wasting at least 2 hours on this I remembered that a customer was nice enough to stick me with a new EBC Suzuki 1400 set of clutch plates. It was a complete long shot, but if I could remember where I stored them I could see how they sized up. It wasn’t long until I found them and remarkably they were almost perfect. The outer diameter of the clutch surface was as close as you could get to being exact, they had the right number of drive tabs, they were just a little bit too wide to work. I immediately thought of cutting the tabs down, but it seemed so easy to find a set of plates that fit, I figured I go check some more. I remembered a 250 ninja clutch laying around here but there was no way that would fit. I checked the internet one last time and the answer was no, I would not find something else.
What are the chances of having the only set of clutch plates that are close enough to work just laying around? Not to mention the fact that they were here because a customer rudely stuck me with them by not showing up to have them installed, and on top of that I paid for them without taking a deposit because he was a regular customer, and figured he would show up and I would be ready to do the job. There is definitely something bigger than all of us.
Anyway all I had to do now was cut all those drive tabs to the right width. I took some measurements and it happened to work out that I basically needed to take the width of a band saw blade off each side of the tabs. i figured this would take forever, because you have to be extremely careful and keep them straight and you want them all the same width. So I went to the band saw and got started and quickly found out this wasn’t too hard. Not only that but I would say the whole job went pretty easily and only took about an hour to an hour and a half.
I cleaned up and carefully sized the edges of the tabs with a file. I left them just a hair bigger, so I could do this and get a really nice fit. Next i had to measure the stack height. The Suzuki clutch plates were a bit thinner than the original Harley ones, but once more luck was on my side and all I had to do was add one more fiber plate and one more steel. Fortunately steel plates were available on the internet and it really doesn’t matter that they are old. The Suzuki clutch also has 3 more plates than the original, so I had plenty to work with. the final stack height ended up within .015″ of the original. Perfect. The whole thing worked out great , so I figured I would post this if you run into this problem. Hope this helps someone out.
The EBC part number for this is CK-3382. This fits Suzuki Intruder’s / Boulevard’s 1987 to 2008.
old crusty original, unusable clutch plate for sx250 cutting down drive tabs to fit new cut down EBC CK-3382 clutch platenew cut down EBC CK-3382 clutch plate, close upnew clutch pack with extra plate conversion
This is a overview of cleaning and rebuilding this 1975 Harley-Davidson SX250 dirt bike engine, originally manufactured by Aermacchi company in Italy. My friend asked me to sell it for him and I looked at it and did some research on whats out there to get some kind of price and what not. I saw that most people just took these engines and put them up for sale however they found them. I decided that is bullshit and made the decision to take this one apart and put new crank seals etc…
To be on the up and up, I have called this a rebuild, it was more like a take it apart and clean it and replace seals and stuff. The engine was in really good shape and needed some basics. I did this so that someone who might want to buy it, isn’t buying something that’s in unknown condition and quickly becomes a money pit. It’s quite a few hours of work and since I’ve been building engines for almost 40 years, I’d figured I’d do it. It is for sale and can be found here at CosmicMoto.net
The engine was dirty, but had been stored inside for at least 20 years and had more than likely been sitting around before that. While nothing was really bad, with exception of the clutch and sprocket, it was very dirty inside and those crank seals were old and hard as I expected, and that is not good for a 2 stroke.
You can see all the dirt laying on the bottom of engine cases of the sx250You can see the dirt is all through out the engine. Nothing terrible, but you want that cleaned up so it doesn’t do any damage.cases all cleaned up
Everything got cleaned up and all the bearings checked and they were all in very good shape. The original clutch was toast, and I couldn’t find Harley SX250 plates. So I had a new Suzuki clutch from EBC and it was almost a perfect match. I had to trim the drive tabs down carefully and I also had to add another steel and friction plate to make the stack height of the clutch match the stock stack height. It worked out perfect and this way I didn’t have to put 40+ year old “new” clutch plates in. I also took the transmission completely apart and inspected everything… all of it was in good shape.
new clutch pack with extra plate conversiontransmission was taken all apart, cleaned and reassembled. Everything looks good.another view of assembled gear box. new clutch test fitted ready for final assemblycrank installed getting ready to put cases back together.
I checked out the crankshaft and it was all good, wristpin and big-end bearings are good, and i assembled everything into the right hand side case. I sourced some new SKF seals for the crank, transmission and shifter and also bought a gasket set.
new crankshaft seals installed. SKF seals were used.new SKF seals for sx250 enginepiston and rings cleaned up.view of cylinder, by exhaust portview of cylinder intake port sidegeneral view of cylinder showing it is in good shape.
Next was the top end. The piston, rings and cylinder are in very good shape and seem to be standard, stock size. Very little scuffing. It all went together as expected and there is a very good seal in the lower end, as can be observed by a piston port 2 stroke. As far as the carburetor goes, I cleaned it out pretty well, once again so the buyer can see what is really there without wasting time. I had no intentions of actually rebuilding it. What is there is in good shape.
lower end has been put together and top end is next.top end installedDelorto carburetor before cleaning. Delorto carb after cleaningcarburetor mounted on engine
Last was to check was of the electrical system. I had to repair a wire that runs between coils, but the coils look perfect. I checked the coils with a meter and also put the coils in and assembled the rotor and spun the engine with an oscilloscope attached. From looking at the scope I would expect the electrics to be working as intended. That includes both coils for charging and ignition and the small pick up that triggers the CDI box. To be clear, I do not have a CDI box.
charge and ignition coils SX250charging coil wave form SX250 HarleySX250 ignition coil wavecharging coil wave form SX250 Harley
Finished Engine
SX250 Harley-Davidson Engine – left sideSX250 Harley-Davidson Engine-frontnew drive sprocket
One of the most common questions is “Do I have a 74 or 80 inch shovelhead cylinder?”
Shovelhead cylinders are basically the same on the outside dimensions. The bore of the cylinders is however different. Standard size 74″ cylinders are 3 7/16″ or, 3.4380″ and 80″ cylinders are 3 1/2″ or, 3.498″ . Visually it can be hard to tell whats is what, and when you get into 74″ cylinders that are like .040″ over size it is definitely confusing unless you have a dial bore gauge or set of calipers. Calipers can be useful but also hard to get and accurate reading because of dirt and centering them correctly.
Here are some “average” amp draw amounts for the different circuits on a fuel injected Harley-Davidson. These were taken off of a 2009 Softail Heritage. I took them at the fuse (relay) box looking for a bad component that was drawing a lot of power. In this case it ended up being a bad tail light flasher thing made by BikeTronics. While these figures are for the Softail, these figures will be about the same for almost all bikes. Example a headlight circuit will pretty much draw the same power. Same thing with the ECM’s.
Tail Light 1.5 amps
Head Light 4.4 amps
Head Light + spot lamps 7.8 amps
ECM 5.2-5.5 amps (varies due to injector driver circuit)
Ignition .2 amps
Speedometer .2 amps
Key Off, battery draw .2 amps
In my case, the tail light circuit was drawing 4 to 5 amps and this seemed weird because I knew from testing things all the time, that 1157 tail light bulbs generally draw 2 amps. By luck since this thing just plugged in, I took it out of circuit and the tail light then drew the 1.5 amps. The part was not burnt or looked damaged in any way. I believe it also did something with the blinkers, running lights maybe? Don’t remember, honestly.
The original problem the bike came in for was bad charging system, not charging. The stator wasn’t putting out and you could see it got hot. I replaced everything with new, good parts, (regulator and stator, and it had a brand new battery) and it charged, but it was charging low. It was just barely charging at 13.5 volts @ over 2500 rpm. Most modern Harley’s charge @ 14.2 volts at idle or just off idle.
I mention this because you should always investigate something if you think it isn’t quite right. I could have technically sent it out the door, charging and fixed, but it would have eventually been back with the same problem.